I’ve had several people ask me how long ice lasts in a typical soft-sided cooler when using the Blowbox. Since I had absolutely no idea, I went outside yesterday with my new Coleman 40 can cooler and a Blowbox to find out. Here’s a quick video:
I’ve run out of room in my garage. A big part of this problem are the Frankencoolers clogging the shelves – large coolers take a lot of real estate. This led me to come up with a compact, portable device that could be paired with anything from a small, soft-sided cooler to the largest hard-sided ice chest providing all day/all night cooling. After numerous prototypes, countless hours in a sweltering garage, and $$$$ spent, I call the result ‘Blowbox,’ mainly because I couldn’t think of anything better.
I took everything that makes the Frankencooler design so effective – the best 200 CFM blower available, multiple high-quality heat exchangers, variable speed digital motor controller, absolute segregation of air and ice/water – and incorporated it into the smallest package I could. This unit plugs into a separate low-amp marine pump that can be placed in any container capable of holding ice/water. I use my BB with several different sized soft-sided coolers, depending on how long I need cooling. The Blowbox and my largest soft-sided cooler combined take only a foot of shelf space when not in use.
This design is powered by a 10′ 12V power plug for hours of operation from any car/plane/boat power socket, and is also power cell ready, accommodating our 4.6 Ah Bioenno Power lithium iron phosphate power cell in its internal tray for 1.5 – 2 hours of operation anywhere, or remove the tray and you have room for our massive 12 Ah power cell, providing over 6 hours of off-the-grid cooling when paired with a sufficient amount of ice.
Speaking of more ice, the Blowbox can also be used with any hard-sided cooler just by drilling two small holes for the pump tubes and small power plug to pass through. A couple of inexpensive plastic plugs reseals the cooler for non-Blowbox duties.
I fabricate several of the key components that make this patent-pending design possible, and because they are not available anywhere, plans come only with our Blowbox Component Package, which will be available very soon on this site. This package is our most complete – requiring only a few inexpensive supplies from Home Depot/Lowes to complete.
Oh yeah, it works awesome.
- One of the most common mistakes someone can make when building a Frankencooler is allowing air to get around the heat exchangers (radiators). When running, the blower(s) on a Frankencooler are working hard to pull air through multiple heat exchangers, and even a small gap can draw in hot air that can severely compromise the cooling effectiveness. A good quality, dense, foam tape is your best friend for sealing heat exchangers to surfaces. HVAC foil tape and silicone sealer are also handy in some applications.
- Even if you’re using a 12V power plug for juice, pay attention to manufacturers’ stated amperage draw specifications when choosing pumps and blowers for your project – lower is better. This is doubly critical when running off of a power cell/small battery as even .5 amp can make a big difference in running time.
- Keep the air chamber as small as possible. The area under the cooler lid and above the thermal barrier should be just big enough for the heat exchangers and tubing. Use 90-degree fittings on your heat exchangers to route water tubes more tightly, keeping the area as shallow as possible and allowing for a thicker insulative panel and more ice storage below.
- For maximum cool, do not operate blower(s) at full speed. Inline blowers of the type used by Frankencooler are powerful. Run at full speed, they can pull air through heat exchangers so fast that the transfer of heat (cold) is compromised. You’ll find that a range of around 50 – 75% blower speed provides a ‘sweet spot’ of strong airflow combined with maximum cooling.
- Consider the surface. The asphalt parking lot surface we tailgate on, even in the shade, is extremely hot. Being a cheapskate, my Frankencoolers are built from inexpensive coolers that don’t benefit from 3″ of solid foam insulation on their bottoms like a Yeti and the radiating heat takes a toll on the ice. Consider laying down a piece of foam board insulation like you used in your build underneath the cooler. If you don’t have foam board on hand, even a folded towel will help conserve ice.
Over the last couple of years, I’ve consulted with numerous individuals seeking a means to cool their tent or foam board shelter at the Burning Man Festival and other venues where gasoline is not available for individual use. So what does it take to cool a small shelter for days on end when the only thing available is ice? Answer: A big cooler, power pack, solar array and controller, insulated vinyl ducting, and special bezels that can be installed in the wall of a tent or hard-sided shelter.
Since cooling duration is wholly dependent on ice, you need a minimum of 40+ lbs of block ice to go all day in triple digits. I suggest at least a 100 Qt. high-quality ice chest for your Frankencooler, powered by a Bioenno renewable power pack with integrated solar controller connected to a small solar array. This setup will give you uninterrupted cooling in the hottest temps, as long as you feed it ice.
A flexible, insulated duct attached to an in-wall bezel at the bottom of the tent/shelter feeds cold air, while another in-wall bezel at the top of the structure carries return airflow to the inlet side of the Frankencooler. This setup effectively works the same as your home central AC unit. It goes without saying that a foam board shelter is easier to cool than a tent, and available kits make this the way to go, IMHO.
If you are going to spend days in blistering heat, don’t settle for a impotent fan or evaporative swamp cooler to keep you comfortable, build a genuine ice-fueled air conditioner utilizing the patent-pending Frankencooler design and enjoy the most effective off-the-grid cooling on the planet.